Finding my feet

It is raining in Trieste. The rain here is not like the slow drizzle of Seattle, sifting down and settling into things with damp surety. The rain comes down much harder, soaking through my wool coat and leaving it and my hat wet, and me slightly chilly if I’m not moving. I’m going to have to learn to actually carry and use an umbrella, something Seattleites don’t tend to do very often. An umbrella and a hiking pole, though, are going to leave me with no hands to actually carry anything. Maybe an actual rain coat is a viable answer, though rather more expensive than the umbrella option.

Yesterday I came up from Pordenone on the train, alone.  My brother helped me to carry my larger pack from the car to the train but after that I was on my own. I bought my ticket to Trieste and back, got my keys from the rental agent, and went with my landlady to the utilities office to have gas, electric, and water shifted over to my name for the bills.

Dealing with the utilities company took most of an hour, though we were there during lunch, when the lines were very short. I’ve been making use of my English/Italian dictionary and more or less managing to make myself understood. Critical things are getting done, even if I don’t have much Italian and the people I am dealing with have only a little English, or none at all.

I had to go to my bank to have someone finish filling out a form to have my VA disability pension direct deposited. I’d already dealt with most of it and only had one small box with a few lines to fill out for the person at the bank. She needed to write in some numbers and the form required the signature of a bank official. It took about five minutes for us to communicate what needed to be done, and to wrap things up. When I get back to my brother’s place, I’ll mail the form to the US. I suspect it’ll take three months or so for everything to fall into place and start coming automatically to my bank here in Trieste.

Actually getting into the apartment took a little doing. I wasn’t sure which way the keys should turn, and which key fit into which lock was an open question. There’s a lock on the door downstairs, and there are two on the apartment door. I was given four keys. The last is apparently the mailbox key down in the little lobby on the ground floor. I haven’t tried it yet, as there are two unlabeled post boxes, but I suspect the one filled to groaning with advertising circulars is probably mine. I’ll have to make a visit to a recycle bin with them sometime soon. I’m also going to have to label the keys so I don’t get them mixed up in dim light.


Looking down the hallway from my front door


My kitchen table

Last night I visited the American Corner for their TGIF. They had advertised it as also being a gathering for a Trieste orientation, but that didn’t really happen. Still, I met some nice people. There was a fairly wide variety of ages represented, from school aged kids to retired individuals significantly older than myself. I was surprised by how many non-Americans were in attendance, and much of the conversation over the course of the evening was in Italian. There were people there from Scotland, Holland (I think), and Sweden, as well as Italians who had lived in the US or who had married Americans, all of whom are living in Trieste now. I believe there was also a Slovenian gentleman there, though I didn’t get a chance to talk to him at all.

I got several very kind offers of assistance from some of the people in attendance, and I’ll no doubt take them up on it at one point or another, as I work on settling into life here. One woman told me about an antiques market as a possibility for small furniture, so I’ll be asking about that once I’ve moved here permanently. Right now, I’m just content to be exploring a little of the city that I can walk to without getting entirely soaked.

Today I headed out to explore a little and run some errands. I stopped at a little shop called Ape Regina (Queen Bee); there were Indian and Tibetan items, some new agey type things, and a little bit of incense. I got a container of Bhutanese Green Tara incense, then wandered further toward the large piazze and grabbed “breakfast” at Buffet da Pepi – a sandwich and a glass of acqua frizzante (fizzy water) for €4. It was an excellent sandwich with pork neck, mustard, horseradish, and just a touch of sauerkraut. I find it a little easier to start my day with something lunch-like than something sweet, though I like going to Pasticceria Stradella in the mornings with my brother. I need to explore the various bars and pastry shops around my apartment to find a good place for that sort of thing.


The view from my apartment

After lunch I found myself at Caffè degli Specchi again, sitting out in a cushy chair under the awning, sipping a pot of rose-scented black tea and watching the rain pour down on Piazza Unità. It was relatively warm out, mid-50s f, and I was sheltered from the deluge. A wedding party was having photographs out by the fountain despite the weather, and then trailed into Specchi, where I could see occasional flashes of more photography happening out of the corner of my eye through the glass. A couple came and sat in the chairs one table over from me, speaking French.

When the rain let up a little, I wandered around until I found a shop selling computers and computer accessories, and picked myself up a small power strip so that I can plug in a few things in the kitchen on the same shelf. Right now it’s the electric kettle and my phone, which is playing some Dead Can Dance quietly in the background. Not far along, I found a games shop, with the usual RPG, board, and card games available, some in English and others in Italian. They had comics, action figures, and dice. It was a little slice of the familiar in a different language.

Another stop for a couple of things to organize my life here a little – a glass for my toothbrush and a lighter for the incense – and I headed home to dry off a bit.

A little before 3pm, I headed out to find Teatro Miela, where they were showing Parole Povere, an Italian documentary film by Francesca Archibugi about a Fruilani poet, Pierluigi Cappello (link goes to the Italian wiki page about the poet, as the English page is just a stub). The film was subtitled in Italian, and Cappello read a fair bit of his poetry as part of a musical performance, interspersed between his discussions of poetry and his life. I quite enjoyed the poetry, and will look for his work once I’ve settled in and actually have bookshelves again. One of the seats in the theater is occupied by a life-sized carved wooden viewer, which I thought was a nice touch. There will always be at least one person at every showing, anyway! I was glad to be able to attend the film, which lasted about an hour. I thought it was a fitting way to spend part of my first weekend in the city.

I’d like to go see some of their animation track, but it’s all on Monday the 20th, and I’ll be back at my brother’s then. Tomorrow I’ll be watching La Mia Classe before I get on the train back to Pordenone. The film shows at 6pm and is just over 90 minutes long, so I should be able to make the train that leaves a little after 8pm.

Before I got back home from the movie, I stopped at the grocery store and used their Bancomat chip and PIN card, the first time I’ve actually used one of that sort. They work a little differently than the cards we get in the US, so it took me a couple of times to get it right, but I emerged from the fray triumphant and bearing some roasted chicken for a late lunch, and a container of cherry yogurt for tomorrow’s breakfast.

In spending time this weekend in the new apartment, I’m starting to get a feel for the place. I’m also appreciating the heated towel racks in the bathrooms as a good place to hang a wet overcoat and get it dry! It takes the arms a little longer than the body of the coat, as they’re not directly over the rack, but it’s much better than the cold, damp alternative.

Most of my time has been spent in the kitchen, where I have a little table attached to the wall, and a chair to sit in. I’ve put a small air mattress and a sleeping bag in the bedroom; it’s quite quiet at night, or at least it was last night. There was a little sound that I couldn’t tell the source of. I wasn’t sure if it was the fridge, the radiators, or some quiet, rhythmic music from another apartment. I’m guessing that when I have furniture and books in here, it will be quieter, as they will absorb some of the sound, as well as the echo in the apartment itself.

I aired the place out again today for a while, despite the rain. Between that and the incense, the paint smell is starting to abate a bit. A little Dong Ding oolong in my traveling gaiwan set was a comfort in the chill afternoon. I’m going to wander out in search of dinner here in a little while and see what the city has to offer.


Still Life: Gaiwan and Tea with Computer


8 thoughts on “Finding my feet

  1. Erynn, in my whole 70 years I doubt I’ve ever been without a raincoat. Well, maybe not as an infant, but I don’t remember the time before I walked. Even in the San Diego desert almost 30 years I’ve had at least one and now two supposedly rain-proof outerwears. I must be a cat in my real life! (We do have rain some years, once with storms so bad I received federal money to help pay the damage they caused).

    Can’t wait to see the rest of your apartment. I didn’t expect it to look so modern!

    It sounds like you’re getting around pretty well, for which I am grateful. I hope you make some friends quickly, including Italians with whom to practice speaking their language! 😎

    • Once I’m here for more than visits to deal with particular specific issues, I’m sure I will find people. It’ll take a little time, but it will happen. I’m a little creaky from all the walking (I hadn’t done much since last March when I stopped being able to drive and, hence, doing much of anything else), but that will pass and I’m looking forward to finding my way and finding my people.

      Raincoats – I haven’t had one since I was a kid. Right now I’m not even sure what to look for… 😉

  2. I am so jazzed for you! I really like that parquet floor, btw. The kitchen looks – nodding to Georganna Hancock above – more modern than I expected, too. It reminds me of some kitschy little set for a sitcom based in NY or maybe even London – something neat, but odd and not what you’d expect. I am in love with the red cupboards, though. *magpie grin* Shiny.

    I’d say get a good raincoat with hood, if it does rain there often and you’re going to be on foot, it would be a good investment. If you’re going to haul things, as you’ve said, an umbrella won’t be practical – unless it comes with a Mycroft to hold it for you. ;D

    Srsly, it sounds like you’re coming along excellently. ^5

    • I shall try to do the place justice. Mostly, right now, I’m just soaking in the light. It’s overcast here today but the apartment is reasonably bright. If I were still in Everett, it would require every light in the place to be on to not feel downright dim. I was not fond of living in a cave, even if it was a very comfortable cave. I can’t wait to be entirely moved in!

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